Born Annie Minerva Turnbo on August
9, 1869, in Metropolis, Illinois. She was the tenth of 11 children of Robert
Turnbo, a
poor farmer, and Isabella Cook Turnbo. Her parents died when
she was young and an older sister raised her in nearby
Peoria. Although
she did attend school, frequent illness caused her to withdraw before completing
high school. As a young
girl, Malone enjoyed fashioning her own and her
sisters' hair. She became aware of differences in hair texture and sought a
way to straighten hair.
During the late 19th century, African
American women used soap, goose fat, and heavy oils to straighten their hair.
Chemical straighteners often damaged the scalp and hair follicles.
While living in Brooklyn, Illinois, around the turn of the
century,
Malone developed a chemical product that straightened African American hair
without damage. She claimed to have
studied chemistry and to have been
influenced by an aunt who was trained as an herbal doctor. Her
first store front was
located at Madison and 4th Street.
She expanded her hair care line to
include other beauty products, including her popular
Wonderful Hair
Grower. She developed and patented the pressing comb which is still in use
today.
In 1902, Malone moved her business to St. Louis, Missouri, where
she hired and trained three assistants. As black women,
they were
denied access to traditional distribution systems, so they sold the products
door-to-door and provided free
demonstrations. In 1903, Malone married
Mr.Pope, but she divorced him after a short time because he tried to interfere
with
her business.
During the 1904 World's Fair, Malone opened a
retail outlet. Visitors to St. Louis responded favorably to her products,
prompting her to embark on an innovative marketing campaign aimed at
distributing the product nationally. In addition to
going door-to-door,
she and her trained assistants traveled to black churches and community centers,
providing free hair
and scalp treatments. She held press conferences
and advertised in black newspapers. Malone traveled throughout the South
at a time of racial discrimination and violence, giving demonstrations in
black churches and women's clubs. Everywhere she
went, she hired and
trained women to serve as local sales agents. They, in turn, recruited others.
By 1910, distribution had
expanded nationally.
One of her
Malone's recruits was Madame C.J. Walker, a former washerwoman who eventually
founded her own company
with similar beauty products and distribution.
She is widely regarded as the most successful black entrepreneur of the early
20th century and founder of the black beauty business in the United
States. However, historians credit Malone with having
developed her
products and distribution system first. Walker sold her own "Wonderful Hair
Straightener," which Malone
called a fraudulent imitation. As a result,
Malone trademarked Poro, a new name for her product and merchandising systems
in 1906. (Poro is a West African word for an organization dedicated to
disciplining and enhancing the body spiritually and
physically.)
In 1914, Malone married Aaron Eugene Malone, an
ex-teacher and Bible salesman. Her husband became the company's
chief
manager and president. The young couple did more than just manufacture beauty
products. They also provided a way
for African American women to
improve themselves on many levels. At a time when few career opportunities were
available, Poro offered them a chance at economic independence. Malone
believed that if African American women
improved their physical
appearance, they would gain greater self-respect and achieve success in other
areas of their lives.
Malone was committed to community building and
social welfare. To that end she built Poro College in 1918, a complex
that included her business's office, manufacturing operation, and training
center as well as facilities for civic, religious, and
social
functions. The campus was located in St. Louis's upper-middle-class black
neighborhood and served as a gathering
place for the city's African
Americans, who were denied access to other entertainment and hospitality venues.
The complex,
which was valued at more than $1 million, included
classrooms, barber shops, laboratories, an auditorium, dining facilities, a
theater, gymnasium, chapel, and a roof garden. Many local and national
organizations, including the National Negro Business
League, were
housed in the facility or used it for business functions. The training center
provided cosmetology and sales
training for women interested in joining
the Poro agent network. It also taught students how to walk, talk, and behave in
social situations. During the early 20th century, race improvement and
positive self-image were seen as a way to increase
social mobility. By
teaching deportment, Malone believed she was helping African American women
improve their standing
in the community.
By 1926, the college
employed 175 people. Franchised outlets in North and South America, Africa, and
the Philippines
employed some 75,000 women. Malone had become a wealthy
woman. It is believed that she was worth $14 million at one
point
during the 1920s. Her 1924 income tax totaled nearly $40,000. However, despite
her wealth, Malone lived
conservatively and gave away much of her
fortune to help other African Americans. She is one of America's first major
black philanthropists. Malone donated large sums to countless charities. At
one time, it is believed that she was supporting
two full-time students
in every black land-grant college in the United States. She gave $25,000 to the
Howard University
Medical School during the 1920s that, at the time,
was the largest gift the school had ever received from an African
American. She also contributed to the Tuskegee Institute. Malone was also
generous with family and employees. She
educated many of her nieces and
nephews and bought homes for her brothers and sisters. She awarded employees
with
lavish gifts for attendance, punctuality, service anniversaries,
and as rewards for investing in real estate.
A $25,000 donation from
Malone helped build the St. Louis Colored YWCA. She also contributed to several
orphanages and
donated the site for the St. Louis Colored Orphans'
Home. She raised most of the orphanage's construction costs and served
on the home's executive board from 1919 to 1943. The home was renamed the
Annie Malone Children's Home in 1946.
Malone also gave generously of
her time in the community. She was president of the Colored Women's Federated
Clubs of
St. Louis, an executive committee member of the National Negro
Business League and the Commission on Interracial
Cooperation, an
honorary member of Zeta Phi Beta Sorority, a member of the African Methodist
Episcopal Church, and a
lifelong Republican.
Malone's generosity
raised her stature in the community but contributed to the financial decline of
her business. While she
was spending time on civic affairs and
distributing her wealth to various organizations, she left the day-to-day
affairs of the
business in the hands of managers, including her
husband. Some of these managers were inexperienced or dishonest,
eventually leading to the dismantling of her business empire.
For
the six years leading up to 1927, Annie and Aaron Malone became embroiled in a
power struggle over control of the
Poro business. The struggle was kept
quiet until 1927, when Aaron Malone filed for divorce and demanded half the
business. He claimed that Poro's success was due to contacts he brought to
the company. He courted black leaders and
politicians who sided with
him in the highly publicized divorce. Annie Malone's devotion to black women and
charitable
institutions led Poro workers and church leaders to support
her. She also had the support of the press and Mary McLeod
Bethune,
president of the National Association of Colored Women. Having the support of so
powerful a woman helped
Annie Malone prevail in the dispute and allowed
her to keep her business. She negotiated a settlement of $200,000.
In
1930, Malone moved her business to Chicago, where its location became known as
the Poro block. Her financial trouble
continued when she became the
target of lawsuits, including one by a former employee who claimed credit for
her success.
When the suit was settled in 1937, she was forced to sell
the St. Louis property. Malone's business was further crippled by
enormous debt to the government for unpaid real estate and excise taxes.
(The federal government required a 20 percent tax
on luxuries,
including hair-care products during the 1920s.) In 1943, she owed almost
$100,000. The government was
constantly taking her to court and by
1951, it took control of Poro. Most of the property was sold to pay the
taxes.
Malone's business failure tarnished her image. Her former
employee, Madame C.J. Walker, often overshadows Malone
because Walker's
business remained successful and more widely known. Walker is often credited as
the originator of the
black beauty and cosmetics business and the
direct distribution and sales agent system that Malone developed. Many
historians believe Malone deserves more credit for her devotion to helping
African Americans gain financial independence
and her generous
donations to educational, civic, and social causes.
Annie Turnbo Malone
died of a stroke on May 10, 1957, in Chicago, Illinois. She was 87. By the time
of her death, Malone
had lost her national visibility and most of her
money. Having no children, her estate, valued at $100,000, was left to her
nieces and nephews.